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The
most important addition to a good cage is a raisin container! |
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HERE'S A PICTURE OF OUR CAGE DESIGN:
of the page to see SPECIFICS ABOUT OUR CAGES
A chinchilla cage can never be too big! Chinnies love to jump and climb, not to mention leap and bound, during their nocturnal romps. Well before you buy a chinchilla, make plans for providing the largest living quarters possible. If you provide him with plenty of space, branches to climb and chew on, tiered shelves to jump on, and a wheel to run in, all of his exercise needs will be met. There will be no need for you to let him out of his cage for excursions around the house, enabling him to remodel all of your baseboards and antique furniture with his artistic chewing expertise. It will also prevent dangerous chinchilla encounters with bathroom and kitchen cleansers, houseplants, and electric cords, not to mention multiple little brown pellet decorations. (P.S. Such romps are really just fine, and fun, as long as they are well supervised)
HERE ARE SOME OF THE IMPORTANT
CONSIDERATIONS OF SIZE - About 14 cu. ft. for a single animal, adding about 2 cu. ft. for each additional animal. Because chins love to jump and climb, the height of the cage should be the largest dimension. A cage measuring about 2 feet x 2 feet x 3 1/2 feet is good for one chinchilla. LOCATION - The right location is important for your chins comfort and protection. Some considerations are: draft free, plenty of light but no direct sun, quiet and away from daytime family activities, off the floor (the sight of people leaning over cages can be rather frightening). The environmental temperature should be maintained at 40 degrees to 75 degrees (Fahrenheit). ATTACHMENTS AND ACCESSORIES SLEEPING HOUSE - Several choices: a wood box with small entry hole, an overturned clay pot with entry hole, or a clay drainage pipe at least 8" in diameter. Chins often prefer to sleep on the highest level of their cage (in which case the sleeping house needs to be securely attached) but I prefer to keep the house on the floor as it is the safest place for baby chins. CLIMBING SHELVES - Attaching one or two horizontal shelves will serve to divide the cage into various levels. Chinchillas can make jumps of 12 to 20 inches from one board to another or to the floor. You don't really need ramps, and these tend to not only inhibit natural jumping abilities but can pose a safety risk if made of wire mesh as little toes are easily broken and entrapped. CLIMBING BRANCHES - Branches should be securely attached or wedged for safety and are a must for healthy teeth and happy animals. They should come from beech, willow, pine, or untreated fruit trees. Do not use elderberry, cedar, redwood, or eucalyptus. EXERCISE
WHEEL - Have you gotten the idea yet that chinchillas really like
plenty of exercise opportunities? Nothing will make her happier than a
good exercise wheel with a diameter of about 14". Keep chin kits away
from wheels until they are 5 - 6 weeks old. You may be able to find a
good wheel at your local pet store, or visit one of these suppliers: DUST
BATH - Daily dust baths are essential to your chinchilla's health
(see the Questions or
Chinchilla Health pages) so he will need a sturdy container, a bit
larger than he is, to roll in. It's nice if it's deep enough to avoid
wasting the dust. A glass fish bowl or cookie jar with the opening at
an angle works well.
HAYRACK
- most are made of galvanized wire and are designed to be hung from the
side wall inside the cage. Look for (or make) nice smooth, rounded edges. It's best to look for a plastic coated hay rack, although you wouldn't want your chin chewing on it a lot. A ceramic pot on the cage floor can also be filled with hay, but you will have more loss (the hay should never be kept if it stays for long in contact with soiled bedding). I prefer to use hay cubes, and you don't need a rack for these. WATER
DISPENSER - Use a small lick type animal water dispenser (16 oz.)
attached to the outside of the cage. Be sure not to hang it over the hay.
Water in bowls is to be avoided. These are easy to find, certainly have their benefits, but are not my preference. Chins tend to spray urine, and fecal pellets also escape these cages easily. Wire cages can also be drafty. All of these concerns can be remedied by adding plexiglass or melamine coated pressboard to the sides and back (and top if you happen to have a cat or bird that likes to lounge up there). Also, it's certain that chins prefer sitting on solid surfaces. These can be provided in a wire cage by adding some solid surface areas for them. WIRE MESH - The chinchilla can't gnaw on galvanized bars or wire mesh, but avoid painted or plastic coated cages. The gauge of the mesh should be no larger than 1" x 1/2" as kits can get out of anything larger. Wire bottoms are not good at all for baby chins as they can get caught in it or chilled from it. CAGE DOOR - Large enough for easy removal of dust bath, sleeping house, and wheel. BOTTOM PAN - Wire cages will have either pull out trays or drop in trays (cage set into tray) for cleaning. These should be metal (like galvanized zinc or aluminum) if they are pull out trays with no wire floor, but plastic is okay if the chinchilla can't reach it to chew on (drop in trays, or pull out trays with wire floor). The tray can be lined with paper or pine shavings and cleaned weekly. It is my preference to avoid the wire floor as chins do best without them. SHELVES - These will also be of mesh (1/2" x 1/2"), but your chinny will love you more if you put some solid shelving in there. Here are some links to suppliers of wire cages: Martin's
Cages
These are my preference, though
they usually need to be homemade (I'm lucky to have a talented builder
in the family). Solid cages provide more privacy for the chinchilla during
his daytime sleeping hours as well as keeping the floor and nearby furniture
in the chinchilla room cleaner. The solid shelves are more comfortable
on the chinchilla's feet, and all of the surfaces are easily cleaned with
a damp rag if they are made of:
MELAMINE COATED PRESSBOARD -
This can be found at your local
building supply and is the best choice for building material. The coating
prevents chewing, urine saturation, and bacterial growth while making
cleanup easier. Not only that but it looks great!
BEDDING
MATERIAL - Solid bottomed
cages will need to be lined with at least 2" of pine shavings (kiln dried
is best). Do not use cedar shavings! These shavings should be changed
once a week. They make great garden mulch! The addition of a bit of kitty
litter (or similar product designed for horse stalls) can be sprinkled
into the shavings for odor and moisture control between cleanings.
Here are some detail pictures:
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WE DO HAVE SCHEMATICS DRAWINGS WITH BUILDING PLANS FOR YOU!
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last
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Oct 2002 |
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NUMBER SINCE
MAY 2002 |