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    NUTRITION    

There is a lot you need to know about chinchilla nutrition as a chin's digestive tract is very sensitive and depends upon a healthy, balanced, regular diet with the occasional treat.

WILD FOODS

In their native South American habitat, chinchillas eat steppe grasses, fruits, leaves, and the bark of small shrubs and bushes. Their life expectancy in captivity is much longer thanks to a more healthy, nutritionally balanced diet, but they will only remain healthy if they get enough roughage like in their native habitat.

PELLETS

Chinchilla pellets look very much like rabbit pellets but are nutritionally quite different. It has been found that a steady diet of rabbit pellets will cause liver damage in chinchillas over time. Offer about 2 tablespoons of fresh pellets (no more than 3 months old) per adult chin each evening.

HAY

Where hay is concerned, dryness is a prime necessity! Preventing mold is the main consideration as mold fungi cause dangerous attacks of diarrhea in chins. A good test is to twist a clump of hay into a "rope". If it holds it's twisted shape then it is too damp. Alfalfa, timothy, bermuda grass, or oat hay can be used, but if changing to a new hay (new variety or new batch) it is best to offer only small amounts until it is certain the chins won't develop any diarrhea. Hay should be offered, in a safe hay rack, free choice all day and any day old hay found on the cage floor should be removed each evening. Here in the humid Willamette Valley of Oregon I prefer not to risk mold fungi in the hay supply and instead use alfalfa hay cubes.

WATER

Drinking water should always be offered in bottles, not bowls, and should be changed at least every 2 - 3 days. Bottles should be scrubbed at every change to prevent algae buildup. Bottled water is often recommended to overcome the negative effects of chlorine in city water supplies as well as contaminants in well water. If you are uncertain of the quality of your water supply, then go ahead and splurge on the bottled water. It will be well worth it. Adding 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of cider vinegar per cup of water can stimulate digestion and is good for intestinal flora, but should be discontinued if loose stools result.

TREATS

There are several treats that chinchillas absolutely love - too many in fact! Any treat should be given in cautious moderation - only 2 - 3 per day. Only one dried fruit is allowed, and then a few other treats are a nice addition. Giving treats is a nice way to build your relationship with your chin, but keep his health in mind. Also, when trying new treats, try only one at a time and wait a few days to make sure there are no negative effects (diarrhea or constipation) before trying another. Here is a list of some good treats:

• Raisins (the favorite!)
• Dried pears,apples,bananas,cranberries,etc.
• Fresh apple, carrot, or celery
• A bit of parsley or cilantro
• Sunflower or pumpkin seeds
• Dried bread cubes
• Oat "O" type cereal
• Nuts - almond,hazelnut,peanut
• Dried, chopped rose hips
• Pasta-elbow macaroni is great

P.S. I feed my kids as much organic food as possible, and do the same for my chins!

VITAMINS AND MINERALS

A good, balanced chinchilla (not rabbit) pellet should be sufficient to meet most of your chins vitamin/mineral needs, but the occasional supplement may be recommended. Calcium and vitamin C are important nutrients, so make sure that your pelleted ration has these or sprinkle Avitron or a similar calcium supplement (available in your pet store) over the pellets and/or give children's chewable vitamin C's (50 mg).

HARMFUL FOODS

Whatever you do, don't give your chinchilla foods are designed for other animals, like parrots or hamsters. While your chinchilla may love these foods, they are no better for him then a steady diet of candy would be for children. Also, avoid greens. A few blades or small leaves of grass,lettuce, or dandelions can be beneficial in very small quantities, but large amounts are unhealthy. Caution is also called for with hay from fall cuttings or from meadows as it can contain toxic plants. Another consideration is house plants. Keep these out of chinny reach as many are poisonous.

SUPPLEMENTS

If you have a pregnant or lactating female or perhaps a chin with a health problem, the addition of certain foods is beneficial. Some examples are: Kids chewable Vitamin C, fresh or dried Kiwi, (reduces gum and tooth problems and may increase health and fur density), Nutrical, Equine Senior, Omolene, Calf Manna (protein supplements for the stressed or otherwise compromised chin), rolled Oats (for diarrhea, protein)

OTHER

Anytime new feed is offered it should be done so in moderation and only one at a time. Don't add anything else new for a few days because if diarrhea or constipation develops you need to be able to determine the cause. Once the new food passes it's trial period, continue to offer it regularly to keep your chin accustomed to it.

WARNING:
BEWARE OF "J" TYPE FEEDERS
(picture shows a chin fatally stuck in the feeder)

This quote comes from a very sad chinchilla owner:

"Tonight I found that one of my chins was missing. I couldn't imagine how she'd gotten out, but she was definitely gone. We searched the house for 2 hours before I saw her still in the cage. Apparently she dropped nose-first down into the feeder when it was low on food and couldn't get out. The sides were too slick for her to grip with her feet so she couldn't back out. I don't know if she died from dehydration, or just from being upside down too long, but either way I'm sure it wasn't a pleasant death."

These feeders are best placed on the outside of the cage, but be sure that you have a lid on the outside portion as I've also heard of kits escaping by climbing from the inside out.

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     CARE     

FIRST FEW DAYS

As much as you will want to be able to handle your new chinchilla a lot in the first few days, it's best not to. Even if she is quite tame when you get her, she will still need time to get used to you and learn to completely trust you. It is a chinchillas distrust that protects her in the wild, so don't take it personally if she doesn't seem to like you at first.

TAMING

You will want to start with just letting the chinchilla get used to the normal activities of your home, so leave her alone for a few days while she does this. This, of course, will include her getting accustomed to her regular feeding and dusting time, at which time you will have your hands in her cage. Just go about the normal routine (and be sure to make it a regular time each evening- she will come to count on this timing), putting your hands in the cage as needed, moving slowly so as not to frighten your new family member. As soon as she is comfortable with your hands in the cage (this may or may not be on the first day) then start to offer her a few treats. It's best not to try to pick her up just yet. Give her a bit more time and then start placing the treat in the palm of your hand so that she has to partially climb into your hand. A few more tries and she should be willing to retrieve a treat from half way up your arm. Now she's ready for you to try holding her a bit.

PICKING UP

Scoop your chinchilla up with one hand under her and one hand gently but securely on top. Chinchillas are most comfortable with the least restraint. She will fight it if she feels confined, but she needs to be safe, so just have a top hand available to prevent any dangerous leaps to the floor. Holding the base of her tail between the fingers of your bottom hand is good idea. She may eventually feel comfortable just riding around on your shoulder, but this can take some time and some chinchillas just never like it.

EXERCISE / DAILY RUN

Once your chinchilla is relaxed about her new home and being handled you can start letting her out for brief romps around the house. This certainly isn't necessary if she has a large cage with plenty of tiered shelves and a large wheel to get the exercise that is necessary for good health. If you do want to let her out, it's best to at least start with a small space like a bathroom, where you can easily catch her back up again. She should trust you well enough by now to allow you to pick her back up again without a chase, but one way or the other it is important not to "chase" her as she will then lose much of the trust she has built up with you. If she is reluctant to be picked up, move slowly to corner her, slowly putting your hands under her to scoop her up. This may take some patient perseverance at first, but within time she will anticipate it and not run away. Make sure that you give her something to look forward to after she is returned to her cage, like a treat or her dust bath.

PLAY

As I've mentioned before, chinchillas love to jump and climb, so provide plenty of opportunities for this in their cage as well as their play area. Branches for climbing and chewing on are a favorite, but they actually spend most of their time on larger, flatter surfaces. Provide tiered shelves in the cage and boxes are easy to provide in a play space. Nothing is loved as much as an exercise wheel. Make it large (14" diameter) as anything smaller can be hard on a chins spine. There are also several chew toys are appreciated. I offer rawhide chews (in moderation - they are rather fatty) as well as cow hooves, pumice blocks, branches, and the occasional cardboard (free of ink or tape).

HAZARDS

There are a few cage hazards to consider as well as several household hazards. In the cage be aware of the risk of wire hay racks, poorly built exercise wheels, and large gauge wire (babies can get out of anything larger than 1" x 1/2"). Household hazards are numerous:

• House Plants
• Electric wires
• Detergents, cleaning agents, chemicals, medications
• Kitchen: Stovetops, leftover food, pots and pans, dishwater
• Dogs and Cats (especially visiting ones)
• Doors
• Ashtrays
• Filled bathtubs, pails, or large vases
• Heaters, sunlamps
• Stained and varnished wood
• Textiles, plastics, plastic bags

You can see why it's important to SUPERVISE your chinny on her romps around the house, or just keep her confined to a "chin proof" space.

DUST BATHS

Chinchillas need and love a daily (or at least 3-4 times a week) dust bath. Without it his fur will lose its softness and become oily and sticky or even shaggy. He should be provided with special chinchilla dust (much like the volcanic ash in his native habitat) which is finer than any bird sand and has (almost*) no substitute. It is also very dusty and can leave quite a film of dust around your home, so find a suitable container with high sides, somewhat larger than the chin. A fish bowl or cookie jar with its opening at an angle work well. Clay or pottery containers, or sturdy plastic, also work well. Put the bath in his cage for only about 15 minutes each evening to avoid having it soiled with waste, and enjoy watching his delighted rolling acrobatics. I like to add about 1 part fine scoopable kitty litter to 2 parts dust to help keep the airborne dust problem to a minimum.

*One chinchilla owner told me that she used finely ground oatmeal for her asthmatic chin.

OBSERVATIONS

There are a few basics to observe in your chinchillas. You will want to check his teeth occasionally to make sure they are not overgrowing (which they shouldn't if he has plenty of chew toys) and they are a nice yellow color. Also, watch for slow or exaggerated chewing as well as goopy eyes - an indication of malocclusion (more information below).

Also, observe the stools. Large, round, dry stools are good, while small, narrow stools indicate constipation. Soft, loose, sticky stools indicate diarrhea (more information below).

Male chinchillas of breeding age should be checked occasionally for hair rings. Rings of hair around the penis can result from breeding and can cause serious problems. If he is cleaning himself excessively or appears swollen, inflamed, or prolapsed, this is an indication of a hair ring problem (more information below).

Your chins general state of health is often indicated by his weight. It's a good idea to monitor this regularly. Also, because of his thick fur, visual observation of his weight isn't sufficient. Pick him up and palpate his ribs, spine, and pelvis, making certain there is sufficient padding in these areas. Chinchillas are rarely too fat.

CLEANING

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     ILLNESS     

SKIN FUNGUS

This is the laymen's term for RINGWORM. These skin fungi, usually trichophyton or microsporum, are very common in our environment. Many of the fungi that cause skin fungus in chinchillas are communicable to humans and other pets (!)

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Hair loss, esp. on ears, nose, feet, and tail. Crusts, scales, scabs on nose and around eyes, spreading over head and body	Danger of infection increases if the chin is kept in unclean and/or humid surroundings or if exposed to an infected animal or their dust bath	Mild cases will often clear up on their own, but more advanced infections are best treated with topical antifungal preparations. These, as well as antifungal powders, are often found with athlete's foot treatments. Some active ingredients to look for are clotrimazole, tolnaftate, and miconazole nitrate.	REGULAR DUST BATHS! Medicated powder for athletes foot can be added to the dust bath (about 1 tablespoon) but should be used with caution. Clean, dry, hygienic living conditions are a must.

DIARRHEA

Diarrhea may be bacterial, protozoal, parasitic, or dietary in origin. It may also be induced by certain antibiotics.

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Soft droppings that stick to the surface on which they fall (even other chins - drag!) and leave a greenish or brownish greasy film. In serious cases the stools may contain blood or mucus and the chin may be lethargic, hunched, anorexic. The tummy may be painful to the touch.	Damp or moldy hay; algae in the drinking water; too many green foods or dried fruits; indigestible green plants; ingestion of toxins; sudden change in diet; overeating in young chinchillas; Giardia or Coccidia.	There are several different approaches to diarrhea ranging from letting it just run it's course to serious diet changes to veterinary care. I've found that, if there are no other symptoms of malaise, dietary changes for the sake of treatment can further upset an already stressed digestive system. Other then eliminating any source of mold or algae, it's usually okay to maintain the regular, balanced diet for the duration (often 2 - 3 weeks). Limit treats to only one daily, and no dried fruit. More serious cases benefit from the addition of raw oats to the pelleted ration as well as chamomile or fennel tea instead of drinking water. Very serious cases, involving additional symptoms as mentioned, should be seen by a veterinarian and require a fecal exam to determine if Giardia or Coccidia are a cause (requiring medication). Blood work to check for hepatitis may also be necessary.	The key to prevention is a good, healthy, regular diet with a minimal of treats as well as a large, clean, dry cage and plenty of time and structures for running and playing a good amount every day. Also, a respect for the chins nocturnal habits is a real plus.

CONSTIPATION

While serious diarrhea can lead to dehydration, serious constipation can result from dehydration and lead to blockage.

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Droppings that become progressively smaller; listlessness; lack of appetite	Too many treats; improper diet; lack of exercise	Discontinue all treats except raisins or other dried or fresh fruits (not bananas). A pinch of Carlsbad salts in the drinking water may help, as will plenty of exercise.	Don't overfeed (only 1 - 2 Tbl. pellets daily), limit treats, provide plenty of exercise.

HAIR RINGS

Hair rings can form around the male genitals as a result of breeding and will need to be removed quickly, and carefully.

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Excessive, conspicuous, perhaps vigorous cleaning by the chin; redness, swelling of the genitals; penile prolapse with an inability to retract.	Breeding activity; insufficient "personal hygiene" by the chin.	Careful removal of the hair ring with blunt tweezers. Having an extra person around can help, or just wrapping your chin up in a towel (be sure he can breath and doesn't overheat). It will be necessary to extrude the penis from the sheath. If the penis is prolapsed and unable to retract it will be necessary to lubricate it (an antibiotic + antifungal + cortisone, oil based type product like "Panalog" works well) and work it gently and patiently back into the sheath. Ice packs can help. It will probably take several days for the penis to stay retracted and it may be necessary to use an Elizabethan collar (ask your veterinarian or write to me) to prevent excessive licking by your chinchilla.	Check your male chins frequently during breeding season, observing for excessive licking and other symptoms listed above. Removing any females would obviously help but will hopefully only be necessary while dealing with a prolapse.

MALOCCLUSION

Chinchillas are rodents and, like most rodents, their teeth (including the roots) grow continuously throughout life at a rate of 2-3 inches/year therefore making it imperative that the chin have ample opportunities for chewing. When a chinchillas teeth do not align properly (malocclusion) they wear unevenly, causing overgrowth or uneven growth of the incisors, and spurs of tooth from molars and premolars which may grow towards the tongue and the lips. As the condition progresses mastication becomes more uncomfortable and only soft foods are selectively eaten, resulting in further tooth growth as the chinchilla is no longer chewing.

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Discharge from the eyes as a result of the tooth root impinging on the orbit; slow eating; selective loss of appetite as the chin chooses soft foods over hard foods; food falls out of the mouth while eating; droppings become scant and smaller; weight loss; increased salivation; grinding of the teeth; pain on palpation of upper jaw around the eye socket.	Calcium deficiency during growing period; too little gnawing material; an accident - broken teeth have grown back abnormally; congenital abnormality.	Damaged teeth need to be treated by a veterinarian and may require regular visits for filing much like an older horse needs. Monitor your animals weight and realize that a chronic problem could lead to the animal starving to death. Serious cases can be very difficult and/or expensive to manage and, because of the animals severe discomfort, euthanasia may be necessary.	Ample calcium intake during the growth period (Avitron sprinkled over the pellets); plenty of fresh gnawing materials; prevent accidents (like those caused by jumping from too high, getting stepped on, or caught in doors); do not breed animals that have a genetic predisposition to malocclusion.

CONVULSIONS/SEIZURES

Convulsions/Seizures, or "fits", can occur for several reasons:

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Muscle tremors, muscle spasms, contortions, seizures, or temporary inability to move.	Eating cold food, excess exercise, calcium or vitamin B deficiencies, stress (often in pregnant females), toxic infections resulting in meningitis, heat exhaustion, or excess salt intake.	See the veterinarian for vitamin B injections, calcium gluconate, and/or hyoscine. In the case of too much salt (which causes the kidneys to seize) give 70% cranberry juice/30% water for 3 days to flush out the system.	Quiet, clean, dry, housing with plenty of space and exercise opportunities, no cold food, avoid excessive exercise, and, most importantly, a balanced chinchilla diet!

(thanks to Pitter Patter Chinchillas for the seizure from excess salt information =))

COLDS

I use the term "colds" loosely to include inflammation of the nares, upper respiratory tract infection, pneumonia, and on to pleurisy. All of these conditions, just as in humans, are predisposed by conditions that weaken the respiratory system's defense against infection. The bacteria involved are the same as for most species - Streptococcus, Pseudomonas, and Pasteurella - and therefore it is suggested that chinchillas can catch a cold from you, and you can catch one from them!

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Some or (infrequently) all of the following: watery or purulent nasal discharge; frequent rubbing of the nose; sneezing; ocular discharge; loss of appetite; fever; lethargy; shallow or heavy breathing; chest pain; "hunchback"	Stress (especially during transport and during a change of surroundings); drafty, humid, cold conditions	Antibiotic therapy through your veterinarian is usually called for. The standard naturopathic remedies for colds can be tried first: Vitamin C and Echinacea (can be found in a children's chewable or drops). Vaporizing oil of eucalyptus and friar's balsam or mentholated vapour ointment (e.g. Vicks) can help clear plugged nasal passages to prevent nasal infections. Provide quiet, warm, dry conditions.	Avoid drafty, cold, damp conditions and unnecessary travel. Prevent infection by other infected species (like you!)

HUMPBACK

This is a term that refers to an extreme symptom of chronic disorders such as liver damage and inflammatory bowel disease.

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Emaciation; back of neck appears sunken and back is hunched when animal is seated.	Chronic disorders such as liver damage and inflammatory bowel disease caused by improper care and particularly by improper diet.	Changing and improving the chin's diet and close attention to meeting the ideal housing requirements should help. Veterinary may be necessary.	Prevention is the same as treatment in this case. Also, avoid stress and make your pet gets his daytime rest and exercise.

FUR BITING/FUR SLIP

These are two separate disorders. With fur biting the chin either chews on his own fur or is being chewed on by another chin. Either way a behavioral disorder needs to be addressed once the offending chin has been identified. Fur slip is the result of a chinchilla ability to shed their hair readily if roughly handled, during fighting, or out of fear.

Symptoms	Causes	Treatment	Prevention
Fur Biting: a moth eaten, chewed appearance over the shoulders and sides of body. Usually the darker undercoat remains. Fur Slip: hair lost in chunks leaving a patch of bare skin with no inflammation.	Stress, fear, socialization problems, hormonal changes.	Address fur biting right away, especially considering any changes in the chin's environment within recent weeks and making any necessary changes. With fur biting, the fur may not regrow while the short undercoat is present. The dark, dead fur must be plucked from the affected areas, applying a soothing cream afterward. Use of an Elizabethan collar may be necessary to prevent further self-mutilation for a short time.	Avoid daytime noise and handling, boredom, overcrowding, small cages, drafts, high environmental temperatures, pairing of incompatible animals.