| Please click on any photo to see a larger picture. |
| Igloo Building |
| In Jan. 1999 I took a Winter
Survival course from the U of Manitoba. We camped north of Brandon
at Delta Marsh on Lake Manitoba. It got down to -25C, but I was toasty
in a - 25C rated bag on a Thermarest and a caribou hide in our igloo which
warmed up to about -5C.
Key steps to igloo building. You need a good heavy knife for chopping a base on hard snow. Make lots of blocks (maybe 30) with a normal carpenter saw (see below). Make a good circle of around 7 ft diameter to sleep 5. Using 2 sticks and a string is helpful but you can use your own body in a pinch (hand on a point then drag your toe like a compas). After you mark out the circle make the first row by leaning the blocks in slightly. If you're on ground try to dig down to it. If you're on the ice leave a layer of snow for insulation. Make sure you sleep on an insulating layer (Caribou skin is great for this). Door: You can try to make the traditional entrance - after
the main structure is done dig a tunnel through the floor layer and out
side then build the familiar mail box shaped vestibule. Or just cut a hole
in a sturdy part of your wall (better if you need sleeping floor space)
and fill it with a block the same size when you retire for the night.
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Next.
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Cutting Blocks is an art in itself. First you have to find a bank of snow that supports your weight but you can still stick a saw into it. Blocks are most easily cut after digging a hole with a straight edge and cutting sideways into a drift. Depending on the strength of the snow (it may have weaker layers) the blocks can be cut flat or like slices out of a loaf. It is important to cut down into the snow at a slight angle into the block so that it doesn't bind and break when you lift it out. |
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| We had a nice consistent bank to work in, so I could cut
our blocks like slices out of a loaf. The blocks should be around the full
length of a saw long, as wide as the length of the saw blade only
(ie with out the handle) and 4 inches thick. Below I am cutting down
the length of the saw blade and out 4 inches. You can also cut them
lying flat by cutting down the 4" and out the length of the saw blade.
We have dug down the length of a saw, then cut with the saw along each
edge (including underneath - very important). If I had made the block
lying flat, I would be using the saw as a lever to lift from the bottom.
The squarer the block the easier the fitting goes. The guy in the background
of 2nd pic is Craig.
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Above Nestor is working up the block ramp. Note the jagged chunks missing in this wall. As long as the brick is set well, that is not a big problem. Just get a handful of snow and hold it against any hole for a few seconds (pushing could knock the igloo in). The snow will stay were you hold it. |
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Final Stages! In the 2nd picture that's Nestor with the knife and our instructor Russ on the right. I think the guys on the left are Louis and Kelsey. The third picture is after a nights sleep (it blew all night but we were toasty). Our body heat iced up the igloo enough that it could support three guy's weight. Note the spiral in the old black and white picture. |
The last picture below is is the beginning of a "Quincy" which is really just a pile of snow that you let set for an hour or so (if it is colder than -10C). The snow on the ground is actually at different temperatures so the piling and setting allows a transfer of heat which creates new stronger snow crystals. After an hour you just hollow this out and you have a pretty good snow shelter, but it is only good for a couple of nights because it ices up so fast. An igloo can last a whole winter because it is made of denser snow. |
| Hollowing out a Quincy is a bit of a challenge.
Make sure you are in non-stick clothes as there will be lots of falling
snow. It is pretty hard work so the snow will be melting fairly easily
if it lands on you. Work on your belly - if the loose snow falls
on you it is easier to do a push up than a sit up with all that snow on
you. And remember the air holes.
The ice up problem was a somewhat disappointing message I took from the course. Basically any modern sleeping bag takes on a small amount of moisture from our bodies for each nights sleep in cold temperatures. In warmer temperatures it dries out quite easily but at colder temperatures, after a week, a normal bag starts to be a cold wet sponge. To get around this, the Inuit use caribou hides which have very good insulative value and are light weight. After a night surrounded by hides the Inuit wake up and put on their warm Caribou hide clothes. They let the sleeping hides cool outside and then whack em with sticks which knocks all the water (which has now turned to ice) off! Caribou skins seemed quite a good winter investment. As for winter survival eating - it is recommended. The body's heat is what keeps you warm in most survival situations and that takes food energy. Inuit dining practices, like eating stomach insides to get your vegetables and eating meat and organs raw to get the most nutrition, may be gross but it all seems to make sense for winter survival. Back to Derek's home page |
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